How to Install Under-Cabinet Lighting

Under-cabinet LED lighting transforms a kitchen and most kits are genuinely DIY. Here's how to choose between plug-in and hardwired, run it cleanly, and get even, glare-free light.

⚠️ Before you start

  • For hardwired installs, turn off the breaker and verify power is off before connecting to a circuit. If you're tapping into existing wiring, confirm the circuit has capacity.
  • Keep low-voltage LED drivers and connections away from the sink and any wet areas; use fixtures rated for the location.
  • If a hardwired connection into a junction box or switch is beyond your comfort, a plug-in kit avoids all line-voltage work.

🧰 Tools you'll need

  • The LED light kit
  • Screwdriver
  • Wire strippers (hardwired)
  • Non-contact voltage tester (hardwired)

Good under-cabinet lighting makes a kitchen look custom and makes the counters actually usable after dark. The best news: most of it is genuinely DIY. Here's how to do it well.

First choice: plug-in or hardwired

  • Plug-in kits are the easy path — mount the fixtures under the cabinets and plug into an existing outlet, usually with a switch or remote. No line-voltage work. For most homeowners, a good plug-in LED under-cabinet kit gives you nearly the full result with none of the wiring risk.
  • Hardwired looks cleaner (no visible cord) and can run off a wall switch, but it means connecting to house wiring — best if you want a permanent, switch-controlled install and are comfortable (or hire it out).

Choose the right fixture type

  • Linear LED bars — the most even, professional, glare-free look. Best for task lighting over counters you work on.
  • Puck lights — pools of light with dark gaps between; nice for accent, less ideal for working.
  • Flexible strips — cheap and versatile, but need a diffuser and careful placement or you'll see individual dots.

For real kitchen work, bars win.

Mount for glare-free light

The single trick that separates amateur from pro:

  • Mount the fixture toward the front edge of the cabinet underside (behind the face frame or a small valance), so light washes down the backsplash and counter — not out into your eyes.
  • Use a frosted diffuser so you can't see the individual LEDs while standing at the counter.
  • Pick a warm color temperature (about 2700–3000K) for a pleasant kitchen glow — see our how to choose LED bulbs guide on color temperature.

Hardwired basics (if you go that route)

Kill the breaker, verify dead, and tie the fixture's supply into a switched circuit — often extending from an existing switch or adding one. Confirm the circuit has capacity, keep drivers away from the sink, and use fixtures rated for the location. If connecting into a box or switch is beyond your comfort, a plug-in kit sidesteps all of it.

Bottom line

For most kitchens: a quality linear LED bar kit, mounted to the front underside with a diffuser and a warm color, plugged in and switched by remote — a weekend upgrade that looks like it cost a fortune. Want it wired to the wall switch with no cord showing? That's the moment to bring in an electrician.

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📞 When to call a professional

Plug-in kits are pure DIY. Hardwiring into a wall switch or adding a new switched circuit is electrician-friendly work if you want it done cleanly and to code — worth it for a permanent, switch-controlled install.

Frequently asked questions

Plug-in or hardwired under-cabinet lights — which should I choose?

Plug-in kits are the easy path: stick or screw the strips/pucks under the cabinets and plug into an existing outlet, often with a switch or remote. Hardwired looks cleaner (no visible cord) and can be controlled by a wall switch, but it means connecting to house wiring. For most homeowners, a quality plug-in LED kit gives 90% of the result with none of the line-voltage work.

LED strips, pucks, or bars — what's best?

LED bar/linear fixtures give the most even, professional look with the least glare and hot spots. Puck lights create pools of light with dark gaps between — fine for accent, less ideal for task lighting. Flexible strips are versatile and cheap but need a diffuser and careful placement to avoid seeing individual dots. For counters you actually work on, linear bars win.

How do I avoid glare and seeing the LEDs?

Mount the fixture toward the FRONT edge of the cabinet underside (behind the face frame/valance) so the light washes down the backsplash and counter, and the diffuser hides the LEDs from your eyes as you stand at the counter. A frosted diffuser and warm color temperature (around 2700–3000K) give the most pleasant kitchen light.

This guide is general information, not professional advice for your specific situation. Electrical codes and permit rules vary by location. If you are not completely confident and qualified to do this work safely, hire a licensed electrician.

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