Whole House Flickering or Half the House Dead? The Lost Leg
Your house gets power on two 'legs.' When one leg fails — at the utility, meter, or panel — you get weird symptoms: half the house dead, strange dimming, appliances acting possessed. Here's what's happening and why it's urgent.
⚠️ Before you start
- A lost or failing leg can put wrong voltages on your circuits and destroy appliances — unplug sensitive electronics until it's fixed.
- Never open the meter base or panel cover — service-side failures are strictly professional territory.
- If you smell burning near the meter or panel, call the utility's emergency line.
🧰 Tools you'll need
- None — this one is about recognizing the pattern and calling the right people
Your house runs on two legs
Power arrives from the transformer as two 120-volt legs plus a neutral. Regular circuits use one leg or the other; big appliances use both to get 240 volts. Inside your panel, the breakers alternate legs all the way down.
Which means: when one leg fails, the failure map looks bizarre — scattered circuits dead all over the house (every other breaker, roughly), other circuits fine, and 240-volt appliances doing strange half-alive things.
The classic symptoms
- Roughly half the house dead — and the dead rooms don't follow any logic you can see
- The dryer runs but doesn't heat (motor's on the live leg, heating element needs both)
- The range clock works but burners are weak or dead
- Lights flickering house-wide, sometimes wind-sensitive
- Lights brighter in one room, dimmer in another at the same time
- Symptoms that come and go as a failing connection heats up and cools down
If two or more of those describe your house right now, you very likely have a failing leg — or its equally nasty cousin, a failing neutral.
Why this is a today problem
A failing service connection is a high-resistance joint carrying your whole house's current. It makes serious heat exactly where the most energy is available. And in the loose-neutral variant, voltage on your circuits can swing far from 120 — I've measured 90 on one side and 150 on the other. That swing quietly executes TVs, computers, fridge boards, and anything else with electronics.
So: unplug the sensitive stuff, skip the laundry, and get on the phone.
Who to call, in what order
- The utility. Report "partial power." They treat it as a priority, come check their transformer, drop, and splices, and fix their side free. A large share of lost legs are corroded utility splices — especially overhead ones that flicker in the wind.
- An electrician, if the utility says their side is clean. Then the failure lives in your service cable, meter base, or panel main lugs — all professional-only repairs, and worth doing immediately.
What not to do
Don't reset breakers over and over, don't run the AC or dryer "to test it," and don't wait to see if it clears up. A cooking service connection only gets worse, and the cheap moment to fix it is now.
📞 When to call a professional
Immediately — this isn't a monitor-it situation. Call your utility first (they check their side free, often same-day for partial power). If their side tests clean, you need an electrician for the meter base or panel. Until someone comes, unplug electronics and don't run major appliances.
Frequently asked questions
What does 'losing a leg' mean?
Residential service in North America arrives as two 120-volt legs that combine for 240-volt loads. Each leg feeds roughly half your breakers. When one leg's connection fails — a corroded splice, a burned lug — everything on that leg goes dead or flaky while the other half of the house works fine.
Why do some things half-work during a lost leg?
240-volt appliances (range, dryer, AC) straddle both legs, so with one leg weak they misbehave strangely — dryer tumbles but doesn't heat, range clock works but burners are weak. And backfeed through those appliances can make 'dead' circuits show ghostly partial voltage. That's why the symptoms feel supernatural.
Who pays for the repair?
If the failure is in the utility's equipment (their splices, the drop, their side of the meter), they fix it free. If it's your meter base, service cable, or panel lugs, that's your electrician and your bill. The utility visit sorts out whose side it's on.
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